What’s not to like about noodle kugel? It’s like bread pudding, but with noodles. And it’s fun to say. I never had anything like it growing up in rural Wisconsin, but I tasted my first kugel in college, at Ella’s Deli in Madison. The recipe on p. 65 of Barefoot Contessa Parties! brought me right back to Ella’s. I don’t know why, but the golden raisins made it seem a little bit extra special.